Another new sound system

[Outside_Lookin_in]

WARNING

Make sure any treated mains item or extension is switched off before you plug in any equipment, otherwise it sparks like crazy! I'd advise the same for unplugging.

 

[bosshoss]

I've never seen any adapters here in the U.S. that have any sort of indentation. Plugs and adapter outlets are both flat surface.
I would think the heat generated from the flow of electric current would have a dicey effect on the paint applied to the tip of the pins.

For whatever reason, the temperature of the painted pins stays the same, even after hours and days of use. There is no heat generated. One possible reason is that no current flows because nothing is plugged into the adapters. AC voltage is present but without current there can be no heat.

However I have used it on the pins of the power plugs feeding current to the Kii speakers (3,000 watts each) and there's still no heating of the pins at all.

Here is a possible solution to the problem of no indentations. Dreambaby brand plastic child safety plugs have a very large indentation which would stop the spreading very effectively. They are much better than the flat ones you can buy in Australia. I have not tested the benefit of metal pins vs. plastic pins, but I don't think it makes any difference. There will be metal pins inside the multiple adapter strip and they will get paste on them even if you use plastic baby plugs. It's the paste that does the work, not the metal.

https://www.woolworths.com.au/shop/...THj2IajwpJ4hRyNK2-0aAsCDEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[bosshoss]

WARNING

Make sure any treated mains item or extension is switched off before you plug in any equipment, otherwise it sparks like crazy! I'd advise the same for unplugging.

Sparks? I've never seen any. I've heard a small crackle but it was far from crazy. Any appliance can do that if you plug it in a live socket. Maybe it's your custom adapter causing the problem?

 

[Outside_Lookin_in]

Maybe it's your custom adapter causing the problem?

Yes, for sure it's from the treated power board. I wasn't getting sparking before, or very minor, but now I do. Any electricians here?

I came across this, and I believe I'm getting yellow sparks:

https://www.homees.co/articles/causes-of-outlets-sparking

When using the power board in-line with the B&W speakers I get a nice sparkle with the sound, something I first heard recently on the Kii Three. Like a firework which exposes in a ball of sparkle, or if you're completely lacking in synaesthesia, think in terms of "electric / electrifying sound".

 

[Rich Strauss]

I've never seen any adapters here in the U.S. that have any sort of indentation. Plugs and adapter outlets are both flat surface.

Ikea has them 2 for $8. They are called Koppla.

 

[bosshoss]

This kind of thing would be perfect It has the indentations needed. You could plug flat adapters into this and there would still be enough indentation to "stop the spread".

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ZHONG-XING-USA-Extension-Sockets-6_60504512311.html


If you buy 5,000 of them, they are very cheap!

 

[Rich Strauss]

Those look exactly like the Ikea branded ones.

 

[bosshoss]

I just added my 15th adapter strip, each with 6 double adapters (that's 90 adapters but I have a few more in various places, probably 100 altogether). The improvement for the 15th strip is just as powerful as the first strip. I really don't think it stops, ever. The soundstage just gets bigger until it completely takes over the room, walls, floor and ceiling. And everything in it is more focused, clearer and louder. And the bass just keeps getting lower and tighter.

 

[Outside_Lookin_in]

I can see the adaptor boards and the soundstage vying for space: a battle to the death!

I just have the one adaptor board through which elements of my B&W MM-1 setup are plugged, but the power, focus and depth of the bass I'm getting out of these 3" woofers is astonishing. My next project is painting the inside of the meter box / breaker box lid with Platinum paint. I've already bought the primer.

 

[Rythmn Boy]

The last few banks I have added today and yesterday have made it completely crazy. It just does not stop.
I am currently devising a plan for a proper unit which will replace the banks of double adapters. Obviously the adapters (while amazing) are not the optimum way to go about things. What is needed is a properly designed and engineered box containing three large copper plates (one corresponding to each electrical pin, live neutral and earth). These large copper sheets would be completely painted with BCE paste, and then the box would be sealed, making it completely safe. My current concept actually involves stacks or layers of the copper plates, to further increase the surface area of BCE-coated metal plugged into the mains.

There could be two versions of "the box". Version One would just be a box as described above that just plugs into the mains, and version Two would be the same only it would also feature AC outlet sockets so that amps and other equipment could be connected directly to the back of the box. The electricity would pass through the copper plates before being fed to the audio equipment.

The whole concept is functionally exactly the same as the multiple AC adapter strips, only more robust and with a lot more treated metal surface.

The box would also be aesthetically more pleasing and safer looking

 

[bosshoss]

The box would also be aesthetically more pleasing and safer looking

Yes. And if properly executed, it could be way more powerful. The amount of paste I've used on 90 adapters would be only about one level teaspoon total (not even that much probably). The metal plates inside a "box" could hold 10 times more, easily.

 

[bosshoss]

I just bought the required parts to build "the box" prototype :

 

[bosshoss]

I made the box today. Plugged it in.

OMG!!!

What can I say. It is simply awesome beyond belief. It has more power than my 100 adapters, and I only used 3 relatively small strips (painted both sides with paste). If I used a bank of full-width strips, it would be better than 1000 adapters. The thing is, this is more proof (if it was even needed) - there really is no end to the incredible hidden sound quality of reproduced audio. Once you know how to reveal it.

I forgot to plug the adapter bank back in, at first. I didn't even miss the adapters, it was so good. But it became even better when I plugged the adapters back in. More is always better. The adapters are only temporary, and I will discard them when I make a few more boxes (or add a few more layers to the existing box).
I think the current prototype may be compromised in one way - I only had mu metal strips on hand, so I had to use them. Mu metal has only 1/300th of the conductivity of copper. It's best used as an RF shield around transformers etc. I have some pure copper strips on order, and I will replace the mu metal with copper when the order arrives. Meanwhile I stripped the insulation off 3 pieces of van den Hul SCS12 monocrystal copper/silver wire, and soldered them to the mu metal strips to increase the conductivity, before I applied the paste.

You can see how much free space there is inside "the box". I think it could be loaded with 5 or 10 times as many strips as you see here :

 

[bosshoss]

The sound quality has completely changed since I installed The Box. The instruments and vocals are now much more natural and realistic, and the dimensions of the soundstage are very realistic. The impact of drums and bass is just incredible. The Box is truly a revolution, in ways that my previous sonic revolutions could not even begin to imagine.

The box takes at least 2 hours to reach its "full"? potential. It may take even longer, because I have no idea if it's reached its full potential yet.

All serious audio enthusiasts must start thinking about how they are going to get one. I can supply the paste, but not the boxes. You will have to get the parts (I'll show you what you need) and either build it yourself or get a tech to build it. You have to be serious and committed. Sorry but I'm not wasting this godhead stuff on people who are going to leave it sitting on a shelf.

 

[Outside_Lookin_in]

It looks beautiful, but how are the strips insulated from the chassis?

When will you cover the chassis in STB Magnetic Tape?

 

[bosshoss]

It looks beautiful, but how are the strips insulated from the chassis?

When will you cover the chassis in STB Magnetic Tape?

See the little plastic pillars in the Duratech bag? (post 1134 above) Each strip is mounted on 3 of those little pillars which have self adhesive bases. I drilled 3 holes in each strip. I would prefer screw-mounted pillars for long-term safety and durability, but I was in a hurry, and I'm very careful with anything electric.

 

[bosshoss]

It looks beautiful, but how are the strips insulated from the chassis?

When will you cover the chassis in STB Magnetic Tape?

Honestly, the tape is redundant. With the possible exception of cables. The Box is equivalent to all the tape I've ever made, which is a lot!
(having said that, I've got plenty of tape, so maybe I will cover the inside of the box, haha!).

 

[Outside_Lookin_in]

I've got plenty of tape, so maybe I will cover the inside of the box, haha!).

I'm sure it will make a discernible difference (along with wrapping the power cables).

 

[Outside_Lookin_in]

For those following the STB adventures my Bowers & Wilkins MM-1 speakers, today I cleaned and primed the inside of my meter / breaker box cover. I managed to apply one coat of Platinum paint before darkness closed in. Before, this action my desktop speakers were already impossibly good. Now with only one coat of Platinum, the sound stage has expanded in width, depth, and height to become fully three dimensional. The different instruments and vocal now occupy their own well defined spaces. Stereo is enhanced. I look forward to applying further coats!

 

[bosshoss]

Here is a photo showing the completed, and very simple construction of the Box. You can see I used a pretty thick coating of paste, much thicker than you could possibly get on double adapter pins. The paste is oil based, so it stays wet (but it's way too thick to run). The next one I build will be PVA based, which might be better because it would dry out in a day or two, and that would be safer. Also, once it dries, you could paint on another layer! And another...

On the other hand, it might be the oil base which is giving the incredible result. I'll know in a few days.