Another new sound system

Do you have any idea if the NCE will also work on signal cables and tube pins ? I'm also wondering if I have to use the power strip in the spare wall socket or would it work if I put some treated adapters in the unused sockets of my SR power strip ?
 
Do you have any idea if the NCE will also work on signal cables and tube pins ? I'm also wondering if I have to use the power strip in the spare wall socket or would it work if I put some treated adapters in the unused sockets of my SR power strip ?

Absolutely it will work on signal cables and tube pins. Wherever electrons "flow" in the house or in the stereo circuit, it will work (actually even where there's no "flow", just ac voltage present). But it must be directly on the metal. And obviously it must be done with safety in mind. At the moment I am thinking it may possibly be best to avoid actually painting the stereo itself. Why do that, when you can add another adapter instead? The adapters can be taken out if you don't like the effect (hardly likely!). But I haven't made my mind up about this yet. It's possible the effect on cables will be stronger than the adapters. But I don't think so somehow.

Use on the power strip of your SR, AND in a spare socket. Make several of these multi-adapter beasts. You can't have too many. They are absolutely incredible. I already have 3 full 6-socket strips, and about 20 random double adapters around the house. I'm planning on adding more strips. When you hear them, you won't ask why. It hardly matters at all where you put them. On a scale of 1-10, here's how I see their efficiency :

Same outlet as amplifiers - 10
ac outlet in same room - 9
ac outlet in any other room of the house - 8

There's not much difference! They are far and away more powerful than Nuclear bricks/tape/wands/paint/etc.
 
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The whole search is over. I have found the ultimate answer! Low cost, easy availabliity, one-time postage cost to get unlimited improvement into everyone's hands.
I will send everyone a small jar of NCE contact enhancer, and you will go to the supermarket and buy some power strips, and some double adapters. Then you will paint the top one third of all the pins of the double adapters, and plug them into the power strips. Then you will plug the power strips into spare wall sockets anywhere in the house. Best near the stereo if possible, but not essential.

Then you can strip off and throw away all the tape, bricks etc., because you will be able to create as much improvement as you like with several copies of this device. No need to plug anything into the double adapter sockets, just plug the whole thing into the wall outlet and voila.

Here it is:

powcon.jpg


At the supermarket, the materials to make this cost $22. It sounds better than my $12,000 high end Synergistic Research power conditioner. One small jar of NCE would make 100 of these, because the amount you use on each pin is almost nothing.

Coincidently, I've been working on a similar contraption (except using a 4x power board). I went to the hardware store and bought the cheapest power board I could find - I think it was under $5 - because it was also the simplest in design. The more expensive ones had things like USB sockets or elaborate safety systems, one even having wireless capability. All such gimmicks detract from signal purity.

I was hoping to make it a hybrid contraption, and thanks to your generous offer of black nail polish, it will be a very fashionable emo power board. Hopefully I can scavenge some Batwing tape from you as well before it's sent to the Archive of Obsolete Sound Enhancement Technologies.

Will you be adding treated safety plugs to your STB Power Conditioner?
 
Yes the simplest, cheapest boards are the best. I bought 6 more today. I'm using one right now to conduct an experiment using an NCE formula derived from both Batwing layers, mixed. It sounds even better than the Nuclear NCE....MUCH better! I have only tested 3 double adapters so far, but the three I tested with the new formula sound better than the six I used in the previous strip. The Batwing effect opens up the highs much more than the Nuclear. I think the problem with Platinum etc., was the crystal, adding harshness. I don't think any crystal is needed when there is piezo, mica and tourmaline powder (which is crystal anyway). Those 3 seem to be a perfect balance when mixed with the Nuclear base. The new formula is dark gray, not black.

The perfect option would be to have a jar of NCE Nuclear and a jar of NCE Batwing. That way, you could completely control the brightness balance by using Batwing until the brightness became a bit much (assuming that might happen?), then just swap over to Nuclear for a while, to tame the highs and enrich the bass. Both formulas are pretty well-balanced, it's a matter of perfection and taste.

I don't think Batwing tape will be obsolete. There are still good uses for it. I have plenty on hand and I'll send out a limited quantity with the NCE when it's ready. I'm just waiting on the glass bottles to arrive.
 
Creation of an STB Power Conditioner

1. Take some pills
2. Outer sheaf removed
3. Ready for BCE treatment
4. Completion: Active, Neutral, and Ground wires have been individually wrapped with thin strips of Nuclear magnetic tape. All three were then bound with Batwing magnetic tape, then covered with duct tape to secure. Internally treated with BCE. Externally plastered with Batwing tape.
5. Not recommended: may not comply with relevant standards.
 
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The oleaginous BCE is subtle in its effect (on my system and to my ears, at least), but I think it requires some time to "break in". After a few days you turn on the music and think, "holy guacamole - I don't remember the bass being this extended, or with so much focus and power! Nor the highs being so pure and airy!" And this is at 5 in the afternoon! I think it works best on the plug prongs of the hi-fi equipment.
 
I agree and slightly disagree. I find the beneficial effect of the paste to be the opposite of subtle. I have had stunning, stunning success with the multiple outlet strip / double adapter setups. I have 10 complete 6 way strips active now (total 60 double adapters in 10 strips), and each one gave improvements I could hardly believe. I have one which is plugged into the wall, and then 2 more plugged into the first one. Amazing. They just keep adding more and more volume, punch, clarity, detail, transparency. Everything!

In my Kii system there is very little scope for applying the paste to the actual equipment. But with the adapter strips, that just doesn't matter.
 
Before I would allow g45 members to use the paste with adapters, I have to ask you to check on the kind of adapters you can get in your country. They need to have a small indentation near the pins on either the plug or the socket. They can't be both completely flat, otherwise the paste spreads and could cause a short circuit.

Here's a photo of the kind of indentation that is needed (round of square is ok). There is a small indented area around the holes which stops the excess paste from spreading from one pin to the other.

plug2.jpg


The image below shows a completely flat plug. It's ok to have a flat plug OR a flat socket, but they can't BOTH be flat. That's black plastic (for safety) on the two pins, not paste - you should never paint that area, you should only paint the tips.

plug1.jpg
 
Here's what happens when you use a completely flat plug in a completely flat socket. The plug shown here is a baby safety dummy plug. It's transparent so you can see the black paste spreading, and if it spread a little further it would cause a short!
 
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Please note I painted on a very thick coating onto the baby safety plug, because I wanted it to spread for the photo. You should only use a thin coating, and only on the top one third of the pins, not near the bottom. And take care when inserting the pins into the plug, to stop any unwanted spread.
If you get some spread on a socket or plug, turn off the power, unplug it and clean with a soft absorbent cloth and a very small amount of mineral turpentine.

You shouldn't get anything like the mess in the above photo, because I deliberately overloaded the pins with paste, and used plugs and sockets with no indentations.
 
Here's one of my banks of adapters. This section would give more improvement than a $50k-$100k professional line conditioner. It cost me about $75 in parts. In fact, the $50k unit wouldn't stand a chance against this....
 
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I agree and slightly disagree. I find the beneficial effect of the paste to be the opposite of subtle.

Subtle at first, but becoming stunning over time. Sorry if I didn't convey that clearly!

I can vouch for the improvement incurred by the Kii Three between 21 March and 26 March this year, some of which I assisted in. Detail was increased to the point where you could hear the subtlest artefacts and resonances. The better recorded tracks sounded so good that the experience was mind-bending. Yes, indeed the banks did work, especially the one Mark very kindly helped me customise, and which is shown in post #1,106 above.
 
Subtle at first, but becoming stunning over time. Sorry if I didn't convey that clearly!

I can vouch for the improvement incurred by the Kii Three between 21 March and 26 March this year, some of which I assisted in. Detail was increased to the point where you could hear the subtlest artefacts and resonances. The better recorded tracks sounded so good that the experience was mind-bending. Yes, indeed the banks did work, especially the one Mark very kindly helped me customise, and which is shown in post #1,106 above.
The last few banks I have added today and yesterday have made it completely crazy. It just does not stop.
I am currently devising a plan for a proper unit which will replace the banks of double adapters. Obviously the adapters (while amazing) are not the optimum way to go about things. What is needed is a properly designed and engineered box containing three large copper plates (one corresponding to each electrical pin, live neutral and earth). These large copper sheets would be completely painted with BCE paste, and then the box would be sealed, making it completely safe. My current concept actually involves stacks or layers of the copper plates, to further increase the surface area of BCE-coated metal plugged into the mains.

There could be two versions of "the box". Version One would just be a box as described above that just plugs into the mains, and version Two would be the same only it would also feature AC outlet sockets so that amps and other equipment could be connected directly to the back of the box. The electricity would pass through the copper plates before being fed to the audio equipment.

The whole concept is functionally exactly the same as the multiple AC adapter strips, only more robust and with a lot more treated metal surface.
 
Before I would allow g45 members to use the paste with adapters, I have to ask you to check on the kind of adapters you can get in your country. They need to have a small indentation near the pins on either the plug or the socket. They can't be both completely flat, otherwise the paste spreads and could cause a short circuit.

Here's a photo of the kind of indentation that is needed (round of square is ok). There is a small indented area around the holes which stops the excess paste from spreading from one pin to the other.

plug2.jpg


The image below shows a completely flat plug. It's ok to have a flat plug OR a flat socket, but they can't BOTH be flat. That's black plastic (for safety) on the two pins, not paste - you should never paint that area, you should only paint the tips.

plug1.jpg

I've never seen any adapters here in the U.S. that have any sort of indentation. Plugs and adapter outlets are both flat surface.
I would think the heat generated from the flow of electric current would have a dicey effect on the paint applied to the tip of the pins.
 
I've never seen any adapters here in the U.S. that have any sort of indentation. Plugs and adapter outlets are both flat surface.
I would think the heat generated from the flow of electric current would have a dicey effect on the paint applied to the tip of the pins.

Totally agree except that in my experience STB treatment of power supply and equipment reduces the amount of waste heat produced (proportionally to the amount used and where it's applied).
 
I just noticed a fine line (hair?) of BCE (or a BCE coated hair?) joining the active and neutral outlets under the baby safety plug photographed above!
 
As a side note, the Click adaptor photographed above might well be 20% cheaper than the Coles one, but it's harder to open; in fact, I haven't managed to open one yet. I should add that neither are designed to be opened by the consumer for electrical safety reasons.